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2023 Water Rate Proposal FAQs

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1. I am on a fixed income and cannot afford to pay more for water service. What can I do?

The District understands that rate increases can create a financial hardship for customers on a fixed income and we offer a Lifeline Water Rate Program for low-income customers who are over the age of 62 or who are receiving permanent disability insurance benefits from the Social Security Administration. The lifeline program reduces the daily fixed service charge by 50% to qualifying customers and includes some income restrictions. To learn more about the District’s Lifeline Program, please visit CCWD Lifeline Water Rate Program.

2. How can I lower my bi-monthly water bill?

Using water efficiently can help reduce your water bill while sustaining our water supply for future generations. The District offers water efficiency resources, rebates and coupons to help customers reach their conservation goals. Call 925-688-8000 for more information on the District’s conservation programs.

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Accessory Dwelling Unit Water Service

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1. What is the District’s policy relative to Accessory Dwelling Units?

The District’s Code of Regulations (Section 5.32.020A) states that Accessory dwelling units as defined in California Government Code § 65852.2(j)(1) (also referred to as in-law, residential secondary, or efficiency units) which will not require a separate connection to the water system, and which are either built outside the existing space of a single-family residence or accessory structure or are built in conjunction with a new single-family residence, are subject to the fees and charges specified in Section 5.08.040, which includes a Facility Reserve Charge that is proportionate to the additional burden these units place on the water system, and Section 5.56.060.

As used herein, “existing space” means the area within and including the original walls and roofline of the permitted single-family primary residence or permitted accessory structure.

District Title 5 Regulations (PDF)

2. Do I need a separate meter for my ADU?

No, the District’s Code of Regulations (Section 5.32.050) stated a meter will be replaced by a meter of a different size on a customer’s request or when the District, in its sole discretion, determines that increases in water demand have occurred or will occur due to changes affecting the amount of capacity needed for the customer’s property.  In making said determination, the District will consider and evaluate factors affecting the capacity needed to meet the increases in water demand including, but not limited to:

• Addition of an Accessory Dwelling Unit(s) determined by the District to exceed the capacity of the existing meter.
• Addition of plumbing fixture units, determined by the District to exceed the capacity of the existing meter, in other situations through construction, conversion or expansion of the primary residence.
• Alternate uses of the premises, which the District determines warrant the installation of a larger water meter.

3. What is the next step to provide water service to the ADU?

Please contact the Engineering Services Coordinator at 925-688-8014 or email at csweeney@ccwater.com to determine the next steps involved with providing water service to the ADU.

4. What is a walk-in service?

A walk-in service is only for a single 1-inch water service from an existing water main. There is a fixed cost for the installation of a standard 1-inch water service line, plus the cost of a 5/8-inch, 3/4-inch, or 1-inch meter (a 1-inch meter is required for residential fire sprinklers) and, if required, a reduced pressure backflow prevention device (RPBPD). District Operation and Maintenance crews always install these.

5. Can the District size a meter?

No, the District cannot determine the meter size for your secondary unit. You should consult with a professional engineer or architect to determine your water requirements. The District’s new service fees sheet lists common meter sizes with their typical flow range, and is a useful aid. The District will attempt to guide applicants if the requested meter appears too small or too large for the project. The smallest meter the District allows is the 5/8-inch meter, which can flow approximately 20 gallons per minute (gpm).

New Service Fees (PDF)

6. How long will it take for the design and installation of my walk-in service?

The District’s design time is 8-12 weeks from submittal of application for service to completion of installation depending on the District’s workload.

7. Can I change the location of my new service, and whom should I call?

Yes, call the Engineering Services Coordinator at 925-688-8014 as soon as you know a change in the location or size of your service. The sooner this information is known, the less impact on completion of final service designs.

8. Who should I call to find out the status of my project?

If you have any questions, your main contact person is the Engineering Services Coordinator. You may give them a call at 925-688-8014.

9. Once the design of my project is complete, whom should I contact for installation?

The Engineering Service Coordinator is the main contact for your entire project. They will provide you with your contact person in the District who will coordinate actual installation. If you have any questions, please call them at 925-688-8014.

10. What do I need to do to get the water turned on once the facilities are installed?

Once your water service is installed, and your plumber has connected to the service, call 925-688-8000 for service activation during normal business hours.

11. When do I pay the District to design my new water service?

Walk-in services have a fixed cost for installation and require one payment with your application to initiate, design, and install the project. Call the Engineering Services Coordinator at 925-688-8014 if you have any questions.

12. What are FRCs, and why do I need to pay them?

Facility Reserve Charges (FRC) are a connection fee to the District’s water system. Simply explained, any time a new water meter is installed, more demand is placed upon the overall water distribution system. Therefore, FRC charges are required to cover the District’s costs for developing new water storage facilities, treatment processes, transmission pipelines, and distribution mains. The District’s new service fees sheet lists meter sizes with their associated FRC charge. Each service requires the appropriate FRC be paid.

New Service Fees (PDF)

13. Do I receive a credit for an existing meter if I replace it with a larger meter?

Yes, you will only pay the difference in FRC costs between the larger meter and the smaller meter. The credit received is based on the date of the last payment made (abandoned date) on the existing meter. You pay the difference between the current FRC and the FRC value in place at the time the meter was abandoned. You will also pay the difference in the meter costs. If there is an existing backflow prevention device, you will also need to pay for a larger replacement. There is no credit is given for upgrading backflow devices.

14. What is a PRV and when does the District recommend their installation?

A pressure-reducing valve (PRV) reduces the water pressure to the customer. The Uniform Plumbing Code and the District recommend installing PRVs when the water pressure in the District’s mains exceeds 80 pounds per square inch (psi). The District will inform the applicant of this condition. PRVs are available at most hardware and plumbing stores, and are installed by the applicant on the applicant’s side of the water meter.

15. What is a RPBPD and when are they required?

A reduced pressure backflow prevention device (RPBPD) prevents water from flowing in reverse and potentially contaminating the water in the District’s mains. RPBPDs are required on all services in industrial and commercial areas, on residential services with houses greater than three stories or with residential fire sprinklers, and at all sites that also have a well or other potential water quality hazard. RPBPDs are installed and maintained by the District. RPBPDs are installed approximately 12 inches above ground and are typically located directly behind the meter, preferably in landscaped areas.

16. Can I upgrade or downgrade my existing meter, and whom should I call?

Yes, the Engineering Services Coordinator can arrange to increase or decrease the size of your existing meter. In most cases, this is a relatively simple process. Again, the sooner this information is known, the less impact on completion of final service designs. If you have any further questions, please feel free to call the Engineering Services Coordinator at 925-688-8014.

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Backflow Prevention

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1. Why do I suddenly need a backflow preventer after years of not having one?

CCWD does its best to identify secondary sources of water, since most wells are not identifiable from the street; it is difficult for Inspectors to know who has a well. District regulations require backflow regardless of when the well was installed.

2. I just leased this building, I am now required to install backflow prevention, why wasn't this required by the previous tenant and who should pay for this?

When a commercial account is started, the District reviews the use of the new tenant. If current backflow is not up to District code, the correction must be made before water service is permitted. Cost for the device is covered by either the tenant or the property owner.

3. Will the installation of the backflow preventer affect the pressure and or flow of my water service?

Yes, the installation of the double check valve will reduce your pressure by approximately 6-9 pounds per square inch and the reduced pressure device will reduce your pressure by 9-14 pounds per square inch. Either device will also reduce your water flow due to the reduced pressure.

4. Why is one backflow preventer above grade, and the other is below grade in a box?

The reduced pressure backflow preventer discharges water when it fails. Plumbing code requires that the discharge point is a minimum of 12 inches above the ground. The double check valve does not discharge, and is therefore permitted to be installed below grade in a box.

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Color or Appearance of Water

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1. Cloudy, Foamy or Milky Water

Milky white water can also be described as cloudy, hazy, soupy or foamy, and is almost always caused by air in the water.

Consistent cloudiness in cold and hot water. Tiny air bubbles in water can give water a cloudy or milky appearance. Water in your pipes is under pressure. Filling a glass of water reduces that pressure and can cause air bubbles to appear in your water which can look cloudy, milky, or carbonated.  

Cloudiness in warm or hot water. Air in water lines can sometimes be attributed to warming of cold water lines or overheating water (above 140 degrees) from hot water systems. Milky white water often occurs in spring time when the weather begins to warm.

Troubleshooting. Collect a glass of water and let it stand for two to three minutes. Any air bubbles will rise to the surface and the milky appearance of water should clear starting from the bottom. Entrained air does not affect the quality of your water.

Back to Troubleshoot Water at Your Tap

2. Brown, Red, Orange or Yellow Water

Brown, red, orange or yellow water is usually caused by rust. The major causes of rust include water pipes in your building or water mains.

Intermittent brown, red, orange or yellow hot water. If your water is discolored only for a minute or two after you turn on the tap, the cause may be the internal plumbing. The zinc coating on the inside of galvanized iron pipe can wear thin and expose your water to bare iron. The different colors can be attributed to varying chemical oxidation states of the iron (rust). The longer the water sits in the pipes, the worse the discoloration will be. This is why this problem is most noticeable the first time you turn on the tap in the morning. If only a few taps are affected, only a portion of your internal plumbing has galvanized pipe.

After running your tap for a few minutes, clean water from your water heater or the water main will replace the discolored water. Since iron is an essential nutrient, this condition poses no health hazard. If the discoloration bothers you, however, flush the tap until the water becomes clear and save the water for iron-loving plants.

Consistent brown or yellow cold water. Normal pipeline flow allows silt, sediment and other materials to settle to the bottom of the pipe. A disruption of normal flow can cause these materials to get stirred up and suspended in the water and cause the water to look light yellow to dark brown. The discoloration is caused by dissolved iron which is stirred up in naturally-occurring sediments.

The following conditions commonly cause flow reversals in water mains and sediment to be disturbed.

• Planned cleaning of the water mains to remove pipeline sediment in the near vicinity.
• Pipeline repair work or construction activity in the area. Valves may have been closed for the work.
• Vehicular accident resulting in a nearby water hydrant being knocked over.
• Hydrant being used to fight a fire.

The discoloration does not indicate that the water is unsafe or that the integrity of the water main has been compromised. A disinfectant residual is maintained in our system to ensure that the water is safe for household use, including cooking and drinking. For aesthetic reasons, we recommend you avoid doing laundry until the water clears up. We also recommend that you do not use the hot water as it will draw cold, rusty water into the tank and it may need to be flushed out later.

 If the water at the front hose bib is discolored after running for two minutes, the problem may be coming from our water main and you can contact us at 925-688-8156.

Back to Troubleshoot Water at Your Tap

3. Blue Color

The blue disinfectant some people use in their toilets can cause discoloration of your tap water if your water supply was recently turned off. A condition may have been created in which the water from the toilet tank was siphoned into the plumbing of your house. This can happen when the toilet is upstairs and the water supply has been shut off for some reason. These disinfectants contain chemicals that may pose health hazards if ingested or touched. Flush your plumbing by opening each tap until the water runs clear. Do not drink this water. 

Blue (or blue-green) water may be due to extreme copper plumbing corrosion. If this is happening, the water will usually have a bluish-green tint and/or will leave a bluish-green stain around fixtures and on a white surface if the water drips from a faucet. This copper corrosion can be caused by your electrical system being grounded to your water pipes, especially if you have a mixture of pipe material (i.e., some copper and some galvanized iron). If the blue color is only in the hot water, it may be due to the temperature on the water heater being set too high. If you have a hot water circulating system, the return line may be too small or the water may be pumped too fast for your pipe size, or it may be installed incorrectly.

Back to Troubleshoot Water at Your Tap

4. Green Color

Standing water in a white bathtub can sometimes appear to have a greenish tint to it. Fluorescent lights will make your water appear green. To test this, fill a white bucket with water and take it outside. In the sunlight, the water will look clear and no longer appear green.

Another cause of green water is extreme copper plumbing corrosion. If this is happening, the water will usually have a bluish-green tint and may leave a bluish-green stain on porcelain if the water drips from a faucet. This copper corrosion can be caused by your electrical system being grounded to your water pipes; especially if you have a mixture of pipe material (e.g. some copper and some galvanized steel). If the green color is only in the hot water, it may be due to the temperature on the water heater being set too high. If you have a hot water circulating system, the return line may be too small or the water may be pumped too fast for your pipe size, or it may be installed incorrectly.

Back to Troubleshoot Water at Your Tap

5. Flushing Discolored Water When Caused by Disruption in Our Main

Wait for District crews to complete their work and flows to re-establish. We recommend an hour before resuming normal water use to let the normal flow patterns in our mains to re-establish themselves and for any remaining sediment to settle down.

• First, flush water at full force from your front hose bib until it runs clear. This should take no more than two or three minutes. If the water continues to be discolored, wait an additional hour and try again before proceeding to the next step.
• Second, flush the cold water faucet in the bathtub only after water from the front hose bib runs clear. To avoid wasting water, water the backyard from the backyard hose bib for several minutes or until the water clears.
• Next, flush all of the other cold water household faucets after the tub or backyard faucet runs clear. Start from the front side of the house nearest the street and then move to the rest of the cold water faucets within your home.

If discolored water is also in the hot water system, you can continue to use hot water until the discoloration dissipates and is no longer an aesthetic issue. Many customers prefer to do this rather than refilling the water heater which may require expertise of a plumber if you are unfamiliar with how to do this safely.

Following this guidance generally will take care of the problem. However, depending on the pattern of water use in your neighborhood, it may be necessary to repeat the process more than once if the discoloration continues.

Back to Troubleshoot Water at Your Tap

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Commercial Multi-Family Treated Water Services

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1. I am not sure what I really need for my project: can I call the District and set up a meeting?

Yes, the District's Engineering Services Coordinator is available and eager to meet with water service applicants. Please call the coordinator to schedule an appointment during normal business hours at 925-688-8014.

2. What is the difference between a walk-in service, a service agreement and a water main extension agreement?

A walk-in service is only for a single 1-inch water service from an existing water main. There is a fixed cost for the installation of a standard 1-inch water service line, plus the cost of a 5/8-inch, 3/4-inch, or 1-inch meter. District crews always install these.

A service agreement is for the installation of water services, fire hydrants and fire services where an existing water main is adjacent to a particular development. District crews always install these.

A water main extension agreement is required for any development that requires new water main facilities where none currently exist. Under this agreement, the installation of water mains, fire hydrants and new services is performed by the applicant's licensed contractor and is inspected by the District.

3. When is payment required for Service Agreements or Water Main Extension?

The Applicant shall pay all the District’s costs reasonably incurred in connection with the new facilities required by the District, including without limitation costs incurred in complying with the provisions of the California Environmental Quality Act; costs of acquisition of lands or easements; engineering, legal, and administrative expenses; costs of labor, materials, construction, inspection, and testing; and the District’s usual overhead charges.  Prior to final design and construction of the facilities, the Applicant shall deposit with the District the amount of the District’s estimated costs per the agreements. Construction drawings will not be released until the total estimated cost is deposited.  After the work is completed, if the District’s actual costs exceed the amount previously deposited, the Applicant will pay the deficiency to the District.  If the amounts deposited exceed the District’s actual costs, the excess will be refunded (refer toDistrict Regulation 5.28.060)

4. Will the District contact me during the design of my Service Agreement of Water Main Extension?

The Engineering Services Coordinator will contact you if we have any questions or problems during the service design. You can help the design process by promptly submitting all requested documents and providing the specific location and meter size of your new water service at the beginning of the project.

5. Once the design of my project is complete, whom should I contact for installation?

The Engineering Service Coordinator is the main contact for your entire project. The Engineering Service Coordinator will provide you with your contact person in Operations and Maintenance or the Construction Department who will coordinate actual installation.

6. Can the District suggest a meter size or fire service size?

No, the District cannot determine the meter size or fire service size required for your project. You should consult with your professional engineer or architect to determine your water requirements. The District's New Service Fees sheet lists common meter sizes with their typical flow range, and is a useful aid. The District will attempt to guide applicants if the requested meter appears too small or too large for the project. The smallest meter the District allows is the 5/8-inch meter, which can flow approximately 20 gallons per minute (gpm).

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Costs & Fees

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1. When do I pay the District to design my new water service?

Walk-in services have a fixed cost for installation and require one payment to initiate, design, and install the project. Service agreement and water main extension agreements, normally require at least 2 payments from the applicant. The first payment is a deposit used to initiate the design of the project. This payment is intended to bring the project through design to a level whereby the District can estimate the cost of the entire project and allow the District and the applicant to enter into a water service agreement. Occasionally, the District requires additional funds to complete complex project designs. This additional deposit may be requested prior to design completion.

The second payment is the balance of the total project cost estimate (which includes construction costs) minus the original deposit (s) required after the design is completed at issuance of the agreements for water service. Since, the District attempts to keep a positive balance for all project accounts, additional deposits may be requested throughout the project process for work beyond the anticipated scope. The applicant pays only the actual cost for the District's work and is reimbursed any unused funds at the completion of the project.

2. What are FRCs, and why do I need to pay them?

Facility Reserve Charges (FRC) are a connection fee to the District's water system. Simply explained, any time a new water meter is installed, more demand is placed upon the overall water distribution system. Therefore, FRC charges are required to cover the District's costs for developing new water storage facilities, treatment processes, transmission pipelines, and distribution mains. Connection Fee (PDF)

3. Do I receive a credit for an existing meter if I replace it with a larger meter?

Yes, you will only pay the difference in FRC costs between the larger meter and the smaller meter. The credit received is based on the date of the last payment made on the existing meter. You will also pay the difference in the meter costs. If there is an existing backflow prevention device, you will also need to pay for a larger replacement. No credit is given for upgrading backflow devices.

4. Are there any other credits available?

Yes, a Land Levy Tax Credit (PDF) is available for qualifying parcels.

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Designing Your Water Service

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1. I'm not sure what I really need for my project; can I call the District and set up a meeting to discuss?

Yes, the District's Engineering Services Coordinator (ESC) is available and eager to meet with water service applicants. Please call the ESC to schedule an appointment during normal business hours at 925-688-8013.

2. What do I need to provide the District to get water service?

For new water service, you will need to fill out the Application for Service or the Walk-In Service Application before continuing. Find out more information at New Water Service.

3. What is the difference between a walk-in service, a service agreement, and a water main extension agreement?

A walk-in service (WI) is only for a single 1-inch water service from an existing water main. There is a fixed cost for the installation of a standard 1-inch water service line, plus the cost of a 5/8-inch, 3/4-inch, or 1-inch meter. District crews always install these.

A service agreement (SA) is for the installation of water services, fire hydrants and fire services where an existing water main is adjacent to a particular development. District crews always install these.

A water main extension agreement (WME) is required for any development that requires new water main facilities where none currently exist. Under this agreement, the installation of water mains, fire hydrants and new services is performed by the applicant's licensed contractor and is inspected by the District.

4. Can the District suggest a meter size or fire service size?

No, the District cannot determine the meter size or fire service size required for your project. You should consult with your professional engineer or architect to determine your water requirements. The District's New Service Fees sheet lists common meter sizes with their typical flow range, and is a useful aid. The District will attempt to guide applicants if the requested meter appears too small or too large for the project. The smallest meter the District allows is the 5/8-inch meter, which can flow approximately 20 gallons per minute (gpm).

New Service Fees (PDF)

5. Do I need a meter for each building?

Yes, District Title 5 Regulations (Section 5.32.020) state that a water meter is required for each premise to which the District provides service.

District Title 5 Regulations (PDF)

6. How long will it take for the design and installation of my new WI, SA, or WME?

The District's design time is 6 to 10 weeks, depending upon the size and complexity of the project and our workload. There is also an approximately 30-day period from the time an applicant receives the agreements and cost estimate, to when the payment and signed agreements are due. For District-installed projects, the design is then processed and sent to the District's Operations and Maintenance (O&M) crews for installation. Issuance to O&M and actual installation usually requires 3 to 6 weeks.

For applicant-installed projects, the District prepares construction documents for installation by the applicant's contractor. Construction document preparation usually requires one to three weeks. The installation time is contingent on the applicant schedule.

7. Can I change the location of my new service, and whom should I call?

Yes, call the Engineering Services Coordinator at 925-688-8013 as soon as you know a change in the location or size of your service. The sooner this information is known, the less impact on completion of final service designs.

8. Will the District contact me during the design of my SA of WME?

The Engineering Services Coordinator will contact you if we have any questions or problems during the service design. You can help the design process by promptly submitting all requested documents and providing the specific location and meter size of your new water service at the beginning of the project.

9. Who should I call to find out the status of my water service project (WI, SA or WHE)?

If you have any questions, your main contact person is the Engineering Services Coordinator at 925-688-8013.

10. Once the design of my project is complete, whom should I contact for installation?

The Engineering Service Coordinator is the main contact for your entire project. The Engineering Service Coordinator will provide you with your contact person in Operations and Maintenance or the Construction Department who will coordinate actual installation.

11. What do I need to do to get the water turned on once the facilities are installed?

Once your water service is installed, please contact the Engineering Senior Clerk for meter set and service activation during normal business hours.

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EasyPay

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1. How does EasyPay work?

With signed authorization, CCWD’s bank will deduct funds from a customer’s checking account directly to pay their CCWD water bill. Bills will be paid on time and automatically. Customers will receive a water service statement which includes the amount due and the date the debit will take place. If customers have questions about charges on the bill, they will have 10 days to call us at 925-688-8000 to review the charges.

2. What are the benefits of EasyPay?

The main benefit is no check writing, so no postage. The only thing customers need to do is remember to review their water service statement to make sure the charges on the bill are correct.

3. How is EasyPay beneficial to Contra Costa Water District?

The main benefit is that CCWD does not need to process your payment. The accounting is computed directly from bank to bank, so no paper is involved, saving both CCWD and its customers time and money. The savings to CCWD helps to keep your water rates lower.

4. Is EasyPay available for untreated water customers?

No. EasyPay is currently only available for treated water customers.

5. How do I cancel EasyPay or hold a payment?

Email EasyPay@ccwater.com with your account number and request to cancel or hold payment within 10 days of your statement date.

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Lawn to Garden Rebate Program

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1. How much is the rebate?

The rebate is one dollar ($1.00) per square foot of lawn replaced.  The maximum rebate is $2,000 for single-family residential sites, and $20,000 for multifamily, commercial, and institutional sites.  

2. Am I required to pay a tax on my rebate?

The state of California has made it clear that water conservation rebates are not taxable. However, current federal IRS tax rules are not clear. The IRS has made it clear that CCWD is required to issue 1099 forms to individuals and companies that receive $600 or more in rebates in a calendar year. Therefore, CCWD now requires program participants that are approved to receive $600 or more in rebates in a calendar year to complete an IRS W-9 form and submit it to CCWD before receiving their rebate. Then in January of each year CCWD will issue 1099 forms to those customers that received $600 or more in rebates. Note, water agencies, state officials and members of Congress continue to work with federal tax officials to request that they treat water conservation rebates the same as they do the tax-free energy efficiency rebates. For more information, see Potential Federal Tax on Water Conservation Rebates.

3. Who is eligible to participate?

The Lawn to Garden Rebate Program is available to single family, multifamily, commercial and institutional customers who use water for their landscape through a metered service in the CCWD retail and wholesale service area. This includes customers in Clayton, Clyde, Concord, Pacheco, Port Costa, Antioch, Oakley, Pittsburg, Bay Point, Martinez and parts of Brentwood, Pleasant Hill and Walnut Creek. The applicant’s water account must be in good standing.

4. What lawn areas are eligible for the program?

Lawn areas to be converted may be located anywhere on the property. They must have been irrigated. Brown or dead lawns that are not currently irrigated due to drought are accepted. However, bare dirt or seasonal weed areas that show no signs of the presence of a lawn do not qualify.  

5. What plants can I use in my water-efficient landscape?

Plants must be low water needing and adaptable to our local climate. Plants must be listed on the CCWD Approved Plant List (PDF). Plants not found on this list will be reviewed on a case-by-case basis.

6. I already replaced my lawn with water-efficient plants. Can I get a rebate?

No. The Program is not retroactive. Projects underway or completed prior to receiving a CCWD Notice to Proceed are not eligible.

7. I have already started my project. Can I get a rebate?

No. The Program is not retroactive. Projects underway or completed prior to receiving a CCWD Notice to Proceed are not eligible.

8. Can I receive a rebate for replacing my lawn completely with artificial turf?

No. All lawn conversion areas must contain enough plants to cover at least 50% of the area with living plants once the plants are fully grown. However, a participant may install up to 20% of the total area to be rebated with artificial grass, if the 50% living Plant Cover requirement is met. In addition, the artificial grass must be installed in accordance with the manufacturer’s installation specifications. The installation must be permeable to water and air. Patio carpet or “Astroturf” type products are not eligible.

9. Can I receive a rebate for installing a concrete patio, a walkway or an extension to my driveway?

Yes. Concrete and other non-permeable surfaces may be used but cannot make up more than 20% of the total area to be rebated. Permeable hardscape (which allows water to soak into the soil) such as gravel, brick, pavers or flagstone with permeable, mortar-less material for grout (such as sand and gravel) can make up a larger percentage of your project, but the conversion area must still meet the fifty percent (50%) living Plant Cover requirement.

10. Can I have a flagstone pathway as part of my project?

Yes. Flagstone pathways and patios where the individual stones are set and/or separated by sand or gravel (which allow water to soak into the soil) are allowed. Non-permeable surfaces such as Flagstone pathways where the stones are set on concrete and/or the joints between the stones are grouted or sealed cannot make up more than 20% of the total area to be rebated. Keep in mind that the conversion area must still meet the fifty percent (50%) living Plant Cover requirement.

11. Can I receive a rebate if I already let my lawn die due to drought?

Yes.  Lawn areas proposed to be converted must have been irrigated, however, brown or dead lawns that are not currently irrigated due to drought are accepted. Bare dirt or seasonal weed areas that show no signs of the presence of a lawn do not qualify. 

12. Can I receive a rebate for replacing my high water use lawn with low water use lawn?

No. This program provides incentive to convert lawns to alternative types of landscaping such as trees, shrubs, groundcovers and native bunch grasses. These use less water than even the lowest water use lawn.

13. Can I receive a rebate for replacing high water use plants other than lawn?

No. The program only credits lawn that is removed.

14. What is mulch and why is it required?

Mulch deters weeds, reduces the amount of water that evaporates from the soil, acts as an insulating layer, and keeps the soil cooler in summer. The most common types of mulch are bark chips, shredded bark, and wood chips. Rock or decomposed granite can also be used. Organic mulch breaks down and adds nutrients to the soil. The program requires that converted areas have a minimum of 2 inches (2") of mulch in all planting areas.

15. What is the 50% plant cover requirement?

Upon completion, and continuing for the five-year term of agreement, converted areas must contain enough plants to cover at least 50% of the converted area with living plants once the plants are fully grown. To determine if your plan will meet this requirement, check the mature growth size for each plant used. For information on plant sizes, check the Sunset Western Garden Book (available at bookstores and libraries) or your local nursery. Example: Retrofitting a 1,000 square foot lawn must contain a sufficient number of plants so that at maturity, the plants cover at least 500 square feet.

16. Why is there a 50% plant cover requirement?

The primary goal of the program is to reduce water use by removing water-thirsty lawn, and at the same time, encouraging the use of environmentally beneficial, water-efficient landscaping. Trees, shrubs and groundcovers provide shade, absorb carbon dioxide, supply oxygen, reduce soil erosion, give wildlife a home, decrease energy use by cooling the area, reduce storm water, and save water.

17. Can I keep my existing lawn sprinklers to water my new garden?

No. The existing lawn sprinklers in the converted area must be removed, capped, or converted to an approved irrigation method.   Any lawn areas remaining outside the converted area must be irrigated separately from the new landscape.

18. What type of irrigation system do I need to use?

Participants have three options for irrigating their new landscape, but drip irrigation is the preferred method:
1) The District encourages participants to install a new drip irrigation system equipped with a pressure regulator, filter and pressure compensating emitters. Drip is the most efficient way to irrigate plants, trees, and shrubs. CCWD has information on drip irrigation available at our drip irrigation section on the website.

2) Participants can choose to hand-water their new landscape and not install a drip system. However, this is not encouraged as it is more difficult to establish plants and maintain uniform moisture.

3) On rare occasions, with prior District approval, participants may use low-application rate sprinklers to irrigate their new landscape. These systems must have an application rate of less than 1” per hour and be designed and installed to ensure there is zero overspray onto adjacent pavement or structures and zero runoff due to plants blocking the spray. Participants must get prior District approval and be able to demonstrate the system meets the requirements.

19. What if I only convert part of my lawn?

If only part of the lawn is converted, the remaining lawn must be irrigated separately (i.e., on its own valve) from the new landscape, and the sprinkler system for the lawn must be modified to eliminate overspray onto the new landscaped area. For information on drip irrigation, visit our drip irrigation section on the website.

20. Can I apply for the rebate more than once?

Yes, sites can participate again up to the maximum rebate amount. The maximum rebate amount is $2,000 per single-family residential site, and $20,000 for multi-family, commercial and institutional sites. For example, if a single-family residential site previously converted 500 square feet of front lawn and received a rebate of $500, they may apply to convert remaining front or back yard lawns up to a maximum of $1500.  

21. Do I need to change my irrigation controller to be eligible?

The District does not require any specific controller or controller features, but highly recommends using a controller that has multiple programs (i.e., schedules). This way the new low water needing plants can be watered less frequently than other plants in your yard. This will allow you to achieve maximum water savings and plant health in your yard.

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Los Vaqueros Expansion FAQs

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1. What are the project objectives and benefits?

The primary objectives of the Los Vaqueros Expansion Project Phase 2 are:

• Increase reliability of Delta water supplies for municipal, industrial and agricultural purposes.
• Increase water supply reliability for water providers within the San Francisco Bay Area. 
• Enhance water supply reliability and operational flexibility for environmental; water management purposes including refuge water supplies within and south of the Delta.

Project Benefits:

• Increased water supply reliability ranging from 44,000 to 504,000 acre-feet per year in dry periods. 
• Added emergency water supply storage for Bay Area agencies ranging from 80,000 to 120,000 acre-feet per year. 
• Increased environmental water supply ranging from 50,000 to 790,000 acre-feet per year. 
• Improved quality of water delivered to municipal and industrial water treatment facilities.

2. Where is the Los Vaqueros Watershed located?

The watershed is located in the foothills between Livermore and Brentwood east of San Francisco.

Here are directions

3. When was the dam originally built, and when was it expanded?

The original Los Vaqueros Dam was completed in 1998. At that time, the reservoir had a capacity of 100,000 acre-feet. In 2012, the dam was raised 34 feet, and is now 226 feet high (from toe to crest). It can currently store up to 160,000 acre-feet of water in the first phase of expansion. It is the largest reservoir in the Bay Area.

4. Who owns Los Vaqueros?

The Contra Costa Water District owns the dam, pipelines, associated pump stations and the watershed. CCWD ratepayers funded both the original construction of the dam and the expansion.

5. What environmental documentation is currently available online?

Review available environmental documents.

6. Who are the local agency partners?

Learn more about funding and our local agency partners.

7. What are the near-term milestones?

View the Los Vaqueros Reservoir Expansion Project Fact Sheet (PDF) for project timeline details.

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Los Vaqueros Reservoir & Watershed

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1. What is the general layout of the watershed?

The watershed has two entrances. There is a north entrance on Walnut Boulevard near Brentwood and a south entrance off of Vasco Road near Livermore. See Directions to Los Vaqueros.

2. Is swimming allowed in the reservoir?

No. Body contact is not allowed in Los Vaqueros Reservoir or in any of the streams or ponds in the watershed. The Los Vaqueros Reservoir stores drinking water for 500,000 people in central and east Contra Costa, therefore every effort is made to prevent microbial contamination of the water in order to protect public health.

3. Can I bring my dog?

No. Dogs and other pets are not allowed in the Los Vaqueros Watershed. This protects the multitude of small animals, some of which are endangered, that live in this protected watershed environment. Many of these endangered animals are easily disrupted by both the presence and scent of dogs. This rule also protects public safety and water quality. 

The Round Valley Regional Preserve, which borders Los Vaqueros, is also under this rule. At Morgan Territory Regional Preserve, which is located above the Marina, dogs are allowed.

4. Are there any parking fees?

Parking fees are $6 for the general public, $5 for seniors, and $4 for those who live in the Contra Costa Water District Service Area. See more detailed information about Fees.

5. How much does it cost to fish?

There is a $6 per person daily permit fee for fishing on site at Los Vaqueros.

6. Will I be able to launch my boat in the reservoir?

No, there are no outside boats allowed on the reservoir. There are 16-foot and patio electric boat rentals available. Find boat rental information on our fees page.

7. Can I get hot food and snacks at Los Vaqueros?

Yes, there are sodas, snacks and some limited hot microwave food like burritos and hot pockets available only at the Marina.

8. What are the hours for the Los Vaqueros Interpretive Center?

The Los Vaqueros Interpretive Center is open on Saturdays and Sundays from 9:00 am to 4:00 pm.

9. What is the weather like?

The weather is often very different from the surrounding areas, very hot and windy in the summer and very cold in the winter. Call the Marina at 925-371-2628 for live updates.

10. How can I get more information?

Call the Marina at 925-371-2628.

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New Water Service

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1. What is a Walk-in Service?

A walk-in service (WI) is only for a single 1-inch water service from an existing water main. There is a fixed cost for the installation of a standard 1-inch water service line, plus the cost of a 5/8-inch, 3/4-inch, or 1-inch meter. District crews always install these.

2. What is the Facility Reserve Charge (FRC)?

Facility Reserve Charges (FRC) are a “connection fee” to the District’s water system. Simply explained, any time a new water meter is installed, more demand is placed upon the overall water distribution system. The FRC fulfills two purposes. First, the fee recovers the costs that existing customers have paid to provide capacity for new customers through existing facilities. Second, the fee provides that future facilities built in order to serve new connections are paid for by the new connections. The FRC is a mechanism through which growth pays for the facilities needed to serve growth. The FRC is a fee imposed on new development wishing to connect to the District’s system as well as existing customers that upsize their reserved capacity in the system. The FRC is designed to equitably recover a proportionate share of available capacity in the existing water system and for the cost to expand system capacity necessary to meet the demands of future development.

3. When are fees paid?

Walk-in services have a fixed cost for installation and require one payment, including the Facility Reserve Charge (FRC) payment at the time of application, to initiate design, and install the project.

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Particles in Water

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1. Black Particles

Black particles can come from three common sources: a broken water filter, a degrading faucet washer or gasket, or a disintegrating black rubber flexible supply line hose (for a water heater, washing machine, or kitchen faucet, etc.).

• Hard particles that are similar in size and shape and look like large coffee grounds. These particles are probably granular activated carbon (GAC) particles from the inside of a water filter. Replace the filter cartridge or consult with the manufacturer or the vendor who sold it to you.
• Solid rubbery particles at one faucet. These particles could be pieces of an old disintegrating faucet washer or gasket. Particles are likely only present at one faucet and that faucet might already be leaking. Replace the faucet washers and the packing at the ends of the supply lines.
• Small black particles that smear.  Particles that are small black specs that can be easily smeared between two fingers and are often called oily or sooty in texture can come from the inside of a flexible hose. These black rubber hoses are covered with a braided stainless steel mesh. Over time, the chloramine in the water causes the rubber to break down. Replace the hose, ideally with a liner that is identified as chemical or chloramine resistant. Black rubber hoses typically have a one-year warranty while the more chemical resistant hoses have a five-year warranty.

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2. Brown or Orange Particles

Brown or orange particles are typically rust particles that have broken off the inside of your water pipes or District water mains. These particles are very hard, irregular in size and shape, and can be several different colors (including black). They consist of mostly iron and are not a health hazard but they are a nuisance if they clog washing machine screens, shower heads, or faucet aerators. If the water with particles in it is clear, the problem is most likely from your piping. If the water is discolored for a few hours it is more likely from our water main.

Amber or translucent small round beads/resin.  Defective screens in ion exchange water softeners can release resin beads that look like small balls in the water. The beads will be uniform in size and are the size of fish eggs. The resin can be brown, orange, or translucent and can sometimes be mistaken for sand. Call your service agent for repairs.

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3. White Particles

White or tan/sand-like particles that settle in the water usually come from internal plumbing. This material is pipe scale and is a combination of calcium carbonate and magnesium carbonate. Calcium and magnesium carbonates are naturally occurring minerals and are not a health hazard. Over time, these minerals can deposit on the inside of your pipes and then begin to flake off.

There are three common conditions that can cause scale to flake off pipes more rapidly:

• Shutting off water for repair work can cause pressure and turbulence when it is turned back on which can dislodge minerals from pipes.
• Water softener installation can cause minerals to re-dissolve from the pipes. Additionally, pieces may begin to break loose
• Galvanized iron pipes corrode over time and will gradually swell up on the inside causing the minerals to flake off.

Pipe scale can clog washing machine screens, shower heads, and faucet aerators. There is no practical way to remove pipe scale from the inside of your pipes. If the problem is severe, you may want to consider replumbing.

White or tan/sand-like particles in hot water. The water heater is another source for white or tan particles. As the water is heated, calcium and magnesium carbonates precipitate out of the water, forming white or tan sand-like deposits. As you use the hot water, these minerals can be carried along clogging washing machine screens, shower heads, and faucet aerators. To keep mineral deposits from accumulating in the water heater, flush your water heater at least once a year. Flushing regularly also extends the life of the heater and makes it operate more fuel efficiently.

White particles in hot water that float. Floating white particles can be caused by the disintegration of the dip tube in your water heater. The plastic dip tube, directs the cold incoming water to the bottom of the tank. As the tube gets old, it can disintegrate, sending white particles into the hot water. These particles can be found in faucet screens and sinks or basins where screens are not installed. These particles are brittle and vary in size from small irregular pebbles to longer shards. Contact the manufacturer or vendor for advice on how best to repair the water heater.

White or tan small round beads/resin.  Defective screens in ion exchange water softeners can release resin beads that look like small balls in the water. The beads will be uniform in size and are the size of fish eggs. The resin can be brown, orange, or translucent and can sometimes be mistaken for sand. Call your service agent for repairs.

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4. Crystals or White Residue

Crystals or residue left behind on fixtures, white surfaces, and pots after water evaporates are calcium and magnesium carbonates. These are naturally occurring minerals and do not pose a health hazard. These deposits may appear green, blue, or brown, having been colored by tiny amounts of the metals found in your water pipes. Carbonate deposits can be dissolved with white vinegar. Dishwasher deposits can be minimized by using a commercial conditioner, by using liquid detergents and by using the air-dry instead of the power-dry setting on your dishwasher, which bakes the carbonates onto glassware.

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Redistricting

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1. WHAT is a Community of Interest?

Those with common social or economic interests that should be included within a single district for effective, fair representation.

2. WHY do they matter?

Communities of interest must be considered when deciding how to draw new district boundaries.

3. WHO needs to participate?

Communities are best described by those with first‐hand knowledge. We want to hear about your community; you know it best!

4. WHEN should I respond?

Public participation and comments are encouraged throughout the redistricting process. You can participate in public Board meetings and hearings regarding redistricting via teleconference at (617) 829-7560. More information can be found on our Board Meetings page.

5. WHERE can I get more information?

For more information, email swise@ccwater.com or call 925-688-8169.

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Taste and Odor

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1. Taste

If you recently moved to the service area, your new water may taste different to you. Just as various brands of bottled water taste different due to the varying minerals they contain, the taste of domestic drinking water also varies with its source(s). Be assured that the drinking water that we provide meets or surpasses all State and Federal drinking water standards.

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2. Odor

It is important to determine if the odor exists in the public water supply, premise plumbing, environment (potential drain odor).

• Odors that are consistently noticed at every faucet including the front hose bib are typically  caused by the water supply
• Odor noticed in only one or several, but not all, of the faucets is internal to your house
• Odor that goes away after running the water for several minutes is also internal to your house
• Odor that goes away after you step away from the sink is often coming from the drain

If your plumbing is the source of the odor, you can try to flush the plumbing system or you can consult a licensed plumber. Contact CCWD at (925) 688-8156 if you suspect the water supply.

Test for Odors

When you detect an odor in your tap water, we recommend that you perform what we call a glass test at the faucet.

• Get a clean glass
• Run the cold water tap for 2 minutes
• Fill and rinse twice with cold tap water
• Fill the glass and turn off the faucet or hose bib
• Step away from the sink. This eliminates the possibility of mistaking odors from your drain for odors in your water
• Smell the water in the glass and characterize the odor, if any

Chlorinous, Bleachy, Chemical or Medicinal  Taste/Odor
There are two common causes for a chlorinous, bleachy, chemical, or medicinal taste or odor in the water.

• Addition of chloramine (total chlorine) that we use to disinfect the water to ensure that it is safe to drink
• Interaction of chloramine with a build-up of organic material in your plumbing

If the problem is the water supply, it will occur at every faucet and will not go away after a few minutes of running the water. An easy way to get rid of the chlorine taste and smell is to let water sit in a glass for a few minutes. Then, put the water in a covered container and chill it in the refrigerator. Cold water tastes and smells better than water at room temperature.

Although the total chlorine level is a fraction of what is found in pools and spas, you may occasionally detect the smell of chlorine in your water. This odor may be particularly strong in the shower since chlorine is released to the air more rapidly when mixed with hot water.

Foul, Sulfurous, Rotten Egg, and Sewage Odor 

• Cold Water:If the odor is not evident in the glass, but is noticeable when the cold water is running and you are standing at the sink, then the odor is most likely coming from the drain. To disinfect your drain: 
  1. Run cold water for 15 seconds then turn if off.
  2. Pour one to two cups of liquid laundry bleach down the drain(s) that smell. Pour the bleach slowly around the edges of the drain so that it runs down the sides. Be careful when you handle the bleach because it can irritate skin and damage clothing.
  3. If the smell is coming from a sink with a garbage disposal, turn the disposal on while the bleach is poured. This will spread the bleach around.
  4. Let the bleach sit in the drain for about 10 minutes ─ no longer.
  5. After 10 minutes, run the hot water for a few minutes to flush the bleach. Run water down the garbage disposal drain for the same amount of time.
  6. Repeat these steps if again if necessary.
• Hot Water:If you find these odors in your hot water, there are two probable causes:
  • Bacteria may be residing in the water heater. Disinfecting the water heater may eliminate this odor.
  • The water heater anode may need to be replaced. If experienced, inspect the anode yourself; otherwise, call a plumber.

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3. Earthy, Musty, Moldy, Grassy Odor

The most common cause of this type of problem is the drain. Over time, organic matter (such as hair, soap, and food waste) can accumulate on the walls of the drain and cause bacteria to grow on these organic deposits. To make sure the problem is not in the tap water, fill a glass with a small amount of tap water, then step away from the sink and swirl the water around inside the glass. If the problem is in the drain, the tap water in the glass should not have an odor.

These odors may be caused by an algae bloom. On occasion, mainly during periods of warm weather, CCWD can experience unusually large algal blooms in our source water, some consumers may experience some unpleasant taste and/or odor associated with their drinking water - musty, dirty or "earthy". Some important information and tips to know: 

• Algal tastes and odors are purely aesthetic and pose no health risks. CCWD continues to meet or exceed all Federal and State Drinking Water Regulations.
• CCWD employs a number of treatment measures to remove algal tastes and odors; however, if they pass into the treated water distribution system, it may take a few days for them to dissipate.
• Algal tastes and odors are more noticeable in hot water, rather than cold. To reduce unpleasant taste and odor for drinking, fill a pitcher and chill the water. This practice also conserves water by avoiding running water through the tap until it is cold. Adding lemon helps too.
  • Ice may need to be replaced if made when taste and odors are present.  
  • Odor may persist in hot water longer than in cold water. If this occurs, you may consider flushing your hot water tank.

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4. Gasoline, Turpentine, or Organic Solvent Odor

If you smell gasoline or an organic solvent odor in the cold water, call us immediately at (925) 688-8156 for further assistance. This problem is rare and potentially serious. Do not use the water. It is possible that your meter box was exposed to a hazardous substance.

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Water Installation Equipment

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1. What is a PRV and when does the District recommend their installation?

A pressure reducing valve (PRV) reduces the water pressure to the customer. The Uniform Plumbing Code and the District recommend installing PRVs when the water pressure in the District's mains exceed 80 pounds per square inch (psi). The District will inform the applicant of this condition. PRVs are available at most hardware and plumbing stores, and are installed by the applicant on the applicant's side of the water meter.

2. What is a RPBPD and when are they required?

A reduced pressure backflow prevention device (RPBPD) prevents water from flowing in reverse and potentially contaminating the water in the District's mains. RPBPDs are required on all services in industrial and commercial areas, on residential services with houses greater than 3 stories or with residential fire sprinklers, and at all sites that also have a well or other potential water quality hazard. RPBPDs are installed and maintained by the District. RPBPDs are installed approximately 18-inches above ground and are typically located directly behind the meter preferably in landscaped areas.

3. Can I upgrade or downgrade my existing meter, and whom should I call?

Yes, the Engineering Service Coordinator can arrange to increase or decrease the size of your existing meter. In most cases, this is a relatively simple process. Again, the sooner this information is known, there will be less impact on completion of final service designs.

4. How do raw water customers obtain treated water service?

Raw water (untreated canal water) customers follow the same process to obtain treated water as other new applicants. As with customers with on-site wells, a RPBPD is required on the treated water service for all applicants using canal water. Contact the Engineering Service Coordinator for more information.